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Repointing across London

Mortar falling out
from between
your bricks?

If you can rake the joints out with a screwdriver, or the mortar is sandy to the touch, the wall has stopped keeping water out. That is what repointing fixes, and doing it wrong is worse than leaving it.

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What it actually is

Pointing is the
weather skin.

The mortar between the bricks is not holding the wall up. On a traditional solid wall the bricks carry the load and the mortar does something different: it takes the movement, and it lets the wall breathe out any water that gets in. Pointing is a sacrificial layer. It is meant to decay before the brick does, and it is meant to be replaced.

When it has gone past its life the joints go soft, sandy and hollow. Water runs into the gap instead of over the face, sits in the wall, and starts working on the brick behind. In a London winter that water freezes, expands, and takes the face off the brick. Once the brick face has blown, repointing no longer fixes it and you are into cutting out and replacing individual bricks, which costs considerably more.

So the timing matters. Repointing a wall while the joints are eroded but the bricks are sound is routine maintenance. Leaving it two more winters can turn it into brick replacement.

The part most people get wrong

Cement is not
a stronger option.

Most poorly done repointing in London is cement mortar on a wall that was built in lime. It looks tidier, it goes off faster, and it is cheaper to do. It is also the single most common cause of accelerated damage to older brickwork.

Cement is harder and less permeable than the brick around it. Water that gets into the wall can no longer escape through the joint, so it escapes through the brick instead, carrying salts with it and taking the face off as it goes. You end up with crisp grey joints standing proud of crumbling bricks.

Historic England's guidance on this is unambiguous: repointing mortar should be slightly weaker and more permeable than the masonry it sits in, and unsuitable repointing is among the most frequent causes of damage to historic brickwork. On a Victorian or Georgian London property that means a lime mortar, matched for strength and colour, not a bag of general purpose cement.

How it is done properly

Raked back,
not skimmed over.

The joints are raked out to at least twice the height of the joint, so the new mortar has enough depth to key in and hold. Anything shallower is a skim, and a skim will fall out within a few winters because there is nothing for it to grip.

On older or softer brickwork that raking is done with hand tools. Angle grinders are quick and they are how most of the widened, chipped, ragged joints in London happened: the disc is wider than the joint and it takes the arris off the brick either side. Once that edge is gone it does not come back.

The wall is then dampened down, the mortar is pressed in in layers rather than one thick fill, and the finish is matched to what is already there rather than whatever the mason prefers. On an exposed elevation the mortar is protected while it cures, because lime that dries too fast or freezes before it has set does not gain its strength.

Access is usually the real cost driver rather than the pointing itself. If the elevation needs a scaffold, it is worth doing the chimney, the gutters, the fascia and the roof edge in the same visit rather than paying for the same scaffold three times in three years.

If a survey flagged it

What your report
probably said.

Survey reports rarely use the word repointing on its own. They tend to describe the condition and leave you to work out what it means. Phrases that all point at the same job include mortar joints are soft and eroded, pointing has weathered back, open joints noted to the flank elevation, and previous repointing in a cement rich mortar.

If the report also mentions spalled or blown brick faces, that is the stage after erosion and it means some brick replacement will sit alongside the pointing. If it mentions repointing around window junctions specifically, that is usually about water getting in at the frame rather than the whole elevation.

Send us the paragraph. We will tell you whether it is a full elevation, a patch, or something that can reasonably be watched for another year.

Common questions

Questions we get
asked most.

How do I know if my brickwork needs repointing?+
Scrape a joint with a key or a screwdriver. If the mortar comes away as sand, or you can push in more than a few millimetres without much effort, the pointing has gone. Hollow sounding joints, mortar dust at the base of the wall, and damp patches inside that follow the weather are all the same signal.
Should I use lime or cement mortar?+
On most London housing built before roughly 1919 the wall was built in lime and should be repointed in lime. Cement is harder and less permeable than the brick, so water is forced out through the brick face instead of the joint, which spalls the brick. A cement repoint on soft brickwork causes damage rather than preventing it.
Can you repoint just one wall?+
Yes, and often that is the right answer. The south west facing elevation takes most of London's driving rain and usually fails first. There is no benefit in repointing a sheltered elevation that still has years left in it.
Why do some repointing jobs fail after a few years?+
Almost always because the joints were not raked back far enough. New mortar needs a depth of roughly twice the joint height to key in. Smeared over the top of old mortar it has nothing to grip and it drops out. The second common cause is using a mortar stronger than the brick.
Do I need scaffolding?+
For anything above ground floor, yes, and it is worth planning around. The scaffold usually costs more than the pointing on a small elevation, so it makes sense to do the chimney, gutters, fascia and roof edge while it is up rather than paying for access three separate times.
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